Effervescence, the Launceston-based festival dedicated entirely to Tasmanian sparkling, has just wrapped for its 10th year. A remarkable feat to not only survive the throes of COVID-19 and changes in consumer spending but to also uphold the mantle as Australia’s best sparkling wine festival. This shouldn’t come as a surprise.
While the topic of the decade across the rest of the country has been oversupply, these concerns haven’t reached Tassie shores. The state accounts for only 1.2 per cent of the nation’s crush but 6.1 per cent of the total value. Fruit is scarce to source, and vineyards can’t be established fast enough to satisfy demand. Without requisite volume and the mainland drinking up 95 per cent of the delicious product, it leaves limited stock to sell into export markets. Somewhat problematic at a time when we need to be shouting about the value and quality of Australian wine the most. Yet, the wineries push ahead – winemaker Ed Carr of House of Arras spends every other day on a plane just to spread the word that little bit more – working closely together while staying true to their house styles. The result is a sound understanding that voices joined amplify better than a singular loud shout across the Bass Strait.
Sparkling on ice at Josef Chromy Wines, who has hosted Effervescence since its inception.
Effervescence is synonymous with enjoyment and education, both forming integral cornerstones of the weekend’s itinerary. The cup of knowledge was overflowing between masterclasses led by industry superstars Nat Fryar (Bellebonne), Dr Andrew Pirie (Apogee), Fran Austin (Delamere), to name a few, and rounds of oysters paired with endless comparative flights of vintage and NV Tassie sparkling and Champagne. Utterly indulgent and always insightful, I left the table feeling that perhaps my rainy-day Champagne money wouldn’t need to be spent on Champagne if you catch my drift. Quite frankly, Tassie fizz has never looked this good.
Event host and Tamar Valley pioneer Josef Chromy Wines have undertaken significant but important changes in recent years. In 2022, the family-led producer was sold to Endeavour, and viticultural gun Kellie Graham (ex-Treasury) was appointed as viticulture manager. The recent vintages look exceptionally sharp and refined, harnessing the unique chalky, crushed aspirin-like texture associated with the region, and the acidity is expectedly nervy but completely in check. Aside from their consistent house style and improving quality, the brand has also acquired established vineyards in the Coal River Valley, freeing up more of their Relbia site for sparkling production and allowing premium still wines to be made under a new label named ‘Expression’. This new-found season of exploration and discovery looks damn good on the team, who are energised by the prospect of new benchmarks for the brand.
So, I sit at my desk, back in Melbourne, where premium sparkling wine festivals are as far between as consistent weather patterns, with a hammer to my piggy bank in one hand, signing up to as many Tassie producer’s mailing lists as possible with the other. I vow to leave some for the rest of you if you’re quick.
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