If you've got a special occasion coming up, or just feel like treating yourself to a really incredible wine (and who doesn't?) then we've got the list for you! These five wines have all been rated 97 points or above by the Halliday Tasting Team, putting them firmly in the "exceptional" tier of the 100-point rating system.
For context, only X% of the 186,000 wines Halliday Wine Companion has reviewed over the years have been rated 97 points or about – that's a pretty exclusive club!
Including a 99-point Henschke shiraz from the Eden Valley that "will do down in the annals of Australian fine wine", a 98-point McLaren Vale syrah from Bekkers that is "startlingly good", and a 97-point shiraz from Paralian Wines that is just $48 (an absolute steal!), this list has you covered.
Plus, we hear from the winemakers about the influence of the region on their wines, and discover the best ways to enjoy them.
2021 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
This release will go down in the annals of Australian fine wine as one of the classic releases for Hill of Grace. With a strong vintage and even stronger pedigree, the gnarled old, circa 1860s-planted, shiraz vines have really come up with the goods with this release and as I sit to taste this wine with Stephen Henschke he shakes his head and says, "it just amazes me that my grandmother's grandfather planted these vines". The eagle-eyed will notice a skip in vintage. The yields were down horribly in 2020 across all the Henschke vineyards but man, did 2021 deliver. Super bright magenta/crimson in the glass with a wonderfully deep aromatic profile. Doris plum, blackberry and black cherry with hints of mace, sage, panforte, cedar, dark chocolate, tapenade, pepper, charcuterie, graphite, crushed quartz and violets. From the aromatic detail to the amplitude, purity and flow of fruit, the wine is absolutely on song with stunning length of flavour and presence on the palate, sailing away slowly with tight, fine-grained tannins and the most graceful of travels on the palate. An absolute classic for this wine. – Dave BrookesSixth-generation winemaker and viticulturist Johann Henschke says: I love the significance of the Hill of Grace vineyard for our family. Not only for the irreplaceable wine that we make from four hectares of old-vine, pre-phylloxera shiraz on this single site, but also because only steps away is the Gnadenberg Lutheran Church, which links us to our family’s past as Silesian Lutherans escaping religious persecution in their homeland, and the valiant move to Australia in the 1840s. What I love about the 2021 Hill of Grace is its breathtaking balance. It is thrilling to imagine how this wine will evolve with time.
H. How does your region influence the wine?
JH. The Eden Valley is an ancient land, cared for by the Peramangk and Ngadjuri peoples for tens of thousands of years. The higher altitude brings lower than average temperatures and a greater diurnal shift, translating into more floral, spicy aromatics of shiraz and a savoury, elegant feel on the palate. My grandfather Cyril, fourth-generation winemaker, recognised that the more southerly Mount Edelstone vineyard offered distinct aromatics and texture compared to the Hill of Grace vineyard, leading to the creation of these landmark single-vineyard shiraz wines in the 1950s.
Best enjoyed: We always encourage decanting this wine for a few hours before serving. A high-quality wineglass elevates the experience; we like to serve Hill of Grace in Plumm glassware. Grilled red meats such as game, lamb or beef pair fabulously with Hill of Grace. For adventurous home cooks, we have a wonderful venison recipe by chef Clinton McIver on our website.
RRP $1000 | Drink to 2050+ | henschke.com.au | Shop this wine
2023 Bekkers Clarendon Syrah, McLaren Vale
From the Clarendon vineyard that Emmanuelle and Toby Bekkers acquired in '20 after being planted in the '90s. The history runs longer than that though, with the notably steep site first planted between 1842 and ’48. It’s clear this is a special vineyard, one of the coolest in the Vale, contour planted on vertiginous terraces. This is an extraordinary wine. Sweetly spiced, layered with sultry dark florals and blue and red fruits, this has such impeccable harmony on both nose and palate, the suppleness of fruit and perfectly extracted, caressing tannins dreamlike. Intense but weightless. Imbedded is a mineral line, lavender, some pressed violet, olive, nori, all so seamless. It’s startlingly good – a wine of breathtaking class and character. – Marcus EllisWinemaker Emmanuelle Bekkers says: A wine close to my heart on so many levels. The result of Toby’s hard work resurrecting our Clarendon Vineyard Estate and the delivery of an aromatic profile that transports me back to the Northern Rhône valley each time I smell it.
First planted in the 1840’s, the historically important property had been abandoned and unpruned for nearly ten years when we purchased it in July 2020. It is fair to say that we have poured our heart and soul into its rejuvenation, and I am proud to see the result in bottle.
H. How does your region influence the wine?
EB. The extremely steep hillside dominates the township of Clarendon, situated in the coolest, most elevated corner of McLaren Vale. Unique contour planting and rare soils (clay over schist) reward tortuous, unconventional, hands-on viticulture.
Although not widely planted, Clarendon is emerging as the standout terroir for McLaren Vale fine wine. We’ve long worked with Clarendon fruit, and it fits our polished style of wine so well. Cooler and wetter than the valley floor Clarendon delivers wines with McLaren Vale mid-palate generosity teamed with spice-driven aromatic purity.
After taking such a leap of faith, it’s wonderful to see what this celebrated old hill has provided, given some love and attention.
Best enjoyed: Temperature is an important factor. In my experience Australian red wines are often served too warm. I think it is best to serve this wine on the cooler side (around 15 degrees) where it can slowly warm up in the glass while we savour it. The pleasure of enjoying wine is always enhanced when using fine and elegant glassware.
Baron d'agneau (Saddle of Lamb)
In my birthplace of Provence it would be traditional to match a wine like this with the hearty flavours of roast lamb. We’d call it a gigot double (double roast) further north it’s a baron d’agneau. Either way it’s delicious! Essentially, it’s the back half of a lamb (including the two loins and legs) roasted with root vegetables and herbes de Provence. My French heritage, Clarendon Syrah and Australian lamb is a wonderful combination when we have a large contingent at the table for special occasions.
RRP $300 | Drink to 2045 | bekkerswine.com | Shop this wine
2024 Maxwell Tiers of Wisdom Grenache, McLaren Vale
From three sections of terraced rows on the estate’s '28-planted grenache block. This is a fine follow-up to the debut '23. Better than fine. It’s a stunner. So much depth and presence, allied with clarity and transparency. Old-vine soulfulness paired with deft and thoughtful articulation. Winemaker Kate Petering is making her mark here and this, for me, is her highest point. Those rows of vines perform very differently, and that variation yields many layers in the glass. A raft of familiar red fruits – cherry, cranberry, raspberry, redcurrant and the like – skidding into black, with dark cherries and wild plum, accented with an earthiness and a clean mineral undercurrent. It’s got dark spicing and floral notes, bergamot and white pepper. It’s also got tension, a savouriness of delivery. Just excellent. – Marcus EllisHead winemaker Kate Petering says: It’s not only the attention to detail that we give this wine once it hits the winery, but also the incredible work that goes into the vineyard. These vines are nearing 100 years old and the labour that goes into them means that I am given some extraordinary grapes to play with. How we harvest the parcels in the vineyard really directs the way we work with the grapes in the winery, so I’m allowed to have a lot of creativity in the different ferments. In turn this means that I have some remarkable wines to blend into the final product.
H. How does your region influence the wine?
KP. We are so very lucky here in McLaren Vale. Close to the coast, getting decent rainfall. These vines are on a sandy slope and dry-grown. These factors are a perfect combination for growing high-end Grenache that we are able to harvest at the ideal moment to get the right balance of flavour, sugar and tannin ripeness.
Best enjoyed: With friends, family & delicious food. We think Duck is a fantastic pairing with McLaren Vale Grenache so; Roasted Duck with a radicchio, witlof & nashi pear salad.
RRP $70 | Drink to 2039 | maxwellwines.com.au | Shop this wine
2024 Paralian Springs Hill Vineyard Shiraz, McLaren Vale
From '75 and '98 plantings on the Springs Hill vineyard. The '24 Paralian suite, for me, is the finest to date. All killer, as they say … The quiet power in this is something to behold – a wine of gravitas and grace. It comes in a little darker of fruit this year, though not heavy with it. Dried olive, black cherry, violet, blueberry, ground coffee, a certain sultry floral and spicy feel, with an undercurrent of nori and iodine. This is a marvellous expression, with finely tooled tannins and exceptional length. Simply brilliant. – Marcus EllisWinemakers Skye Salter and Charlie Seppelt say: Springs Hill Vineyard and in particular this Shiraz is the catalyst for us beginning Paralian back in 2018. A handshake was all it took. We were drawn to it for its purity, elegance and restraint. It’s a beautiful site, set up in high in Blewitt Springs where its elevation and subsequent coolness gives the wine its hallmark character.
H. How does your region influence the wine?
SS & CS. McLaren Vale, due to its proximity to St Vincent Gulf is very lucky to have large coastal influence and our wines reflect this with an ability to make stylish medium framed dry reds. The season will dictate red wines natural levels of tannin and tannin is life, it’s a natural preservative, important structurally for all red wine and we seem to have an ability in McLaren Vale to get the right amount… nine out of every ten years.
Best enjoyed: We both encourage almost all of our wines to be decanted. We are very mindful of purity when making any wine for Paralian and often they are very tight and full of potential. A morning decant for evening service would benefit the Springs Hill Shiraz, but if your patience is lean… enjoy it immediately! Serve at cellar temperature in a Shiraz style red wine glass. An aged comte cheese.
RRP $48 | Drink to 2045 | paralian.com.au | Shop this wine
2022 Squitchy Lane Vineyard H.H.W Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley
From vines planted in 1982. From what's turned out to be an excellent cabernet vintage in the Yarra, here's a wine that can hold its own with the best of them. A very bright, medium crimson purple, this smells terrific with its aromas of cassis and dark cherries, violets and pencil shavings from the well-handled oak. On the palate, this is both concentrated yet light on its feet at the same time, with ripe, svelte tannins announcing a wine that's approachable now, but will continue to improve for at least a decade. 210 dozen made. – Philip RichViticulturist Steve Sadlier says: The quality of Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Yarra Valley is often overlooked, despite the region having a long history with the variety. Squitchy Lane has been growing Cabernet since 1982 and the combination of the low yielding old vines and careful work in the vineyard results in pristine fruit and a medium-bodied wine that is smooth and contains intense black fruit character.
H. How does your region influence the wine?
SS. The grapes at Squitchy Lane are drawn from a single vineyard that takes advantage of the climate of the Yarra Valley with warm days and cool nights. The combination of abundant sunshine and the north facing orientation of the vineyard, along with extensive work to improve the soil leads to the development of fruit that is balanced with concentrated flavours.
Best enjoyed: I like to open the wine around an hour before serving, to allow it to breath, while I relax and listen to some music and then serve in glass with a large bowl to release the aromas. Get good friends together and serve with a slow cooked shoulder of Yarra Valley lamb.
RRP $70 | Drink to 2034 | squitchylane.com.au | Shop this wine
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