Small Wonder’s new cellar door and restaurant is worth the trip to the Tamar Valley

Just over half an hour after leaving Launceston last Wednesday, I turned into Small Wonder’s Tamar Valley estate wondering how the drive had gone so quickly. The road had carried me through verdant, gently rolling hills, each bend revealing another postcard view. But as I rolled up the long driveway for the official launch of Small Wonder’s new cellar door and restaurant, I already felt far from the city.

The building makes a striking first impression. Clad in locally cut Tasmanian bluestone, it sits so solidly in the landscape that it looks like it's been there for centuries. Inside, though, the mood changes: the gabled, open-plan space feels modern, light-filled and airy, with views across the outdoor courtyard to the vineyard beyond. I found myself relaxing immediately.

Locally cut bluestone grounds Small Wonder’s new cellar door in the Tamar Valley landscape.

While Small Wonder's cellar door is new, the vines themselves have a longer story. The Tamar Valley vineyard was first planted in 1998, when the property was known as Goaty Hill Wines. Western Australian wine group Overstory bought it in 2020, renamed it Small Wonder and launched the new brand in 2022. Viticulturist Wayne Nunn and consultant Dylan Grigg – Halliday Wine Companion's 2026 Viticulturist of the Year – helped convert the vineyard to organic farming, with certification achieved that same year.

Overstory is also behind Wayfinder in Margaret River, where its approach to organic farming takes shape in a very different landscape. In Tasmania, Small Wonder has continued to grow: in 2024, Overstory acquired a second vineyard in the Coal River Valley, also undergoing organic conversion. It gives the team fruit from two distinct Tasmanian regions to work with, and me another reason to return and see how their wines develop.

The Small Wonder team sharing the story behind the brand at the official opening.

Those wines are approachable and highly drinkable, but they still speak clearly of Tasmania and the places where the fruit was grown. The restaurant is intended to make that connection even closer. Senior winemaker Ockie Myburgh says the kitchen team learns about each vintage so it can “build dishes that genuinely complement the wines, rather than trying to pair them after the fact.” There is a lovely sense of shared purpose among Ockie, Michelin-trained head chef Konstantin Putkin, venue operations manager Chris Morrison and the broader team. Even though some have only worked together for a few years, there was a sense of family that came across, and a palpable excitement about the future of Small Wonder.

Konstantin describes his approach in much the same spirit: “Our menu at Small Wonder centres around relaxation and generosity, just like dining at your family home.” His seasonal dishes draw on Tasmanian growers and producers, while the kitchen has introduced systems designed to eliminate around 90 per cent of single-use plastics, replacing wraps and bags with compostable alternatives. It is another sign that the team is thinking carefully about how this place will work well into the future.

Chef Konstantin Putkin’s seasonal menu is designed to sit alongside Small Wonder wines.

By the end of the visit, Small Wonder’s ambition felt grounded in something simple: making people feel welcome while taking good care of the place. Konstantin sums it up: “If we can create something that’s relaxed, sustainable and full of heart, then we’ve achieved exactly what we set out to do.”

Small Wonder Cellar Door & Restaurant is at 530 Auburn Road, Kayena. The cellar door is open daily from 11am–5pm, with a six-wine tasting priced at $25 per person. A $50 winery tour includes a behind-the-scenes visit and a tasting; the restaurant serves its seasonal menu Thursday to Sunday.

Find out more and book your visit at smallwonderwines.com.au. Plus, click-through below to read Dave Brookes' reviews of a selection of Small Wonder wines.

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