When it comes to wine, Gippsland is Victoria’s largest official Geographical Indication, taking in 40,000 square kilometres between the outskirts of Melbourne and the border of New South Wales, the Great Dividing Range running through it. Yet despite the land mass, there are only about 250 ha under vine, and the number of producers is small, around 50, mostly family owned and run. One reason why I love this region. In the last year, I’ve spent a lot of time driving through South Gippsland, never tiring of the inland verdant hills dotted with dairy cows or grapevines, from Korumburra to Mirboo and Foster, or taking coastal roads to well-known seaside towns such as Inverloch, Cape Paterson or Wilsons Promontory. If you do have time to spare, head towards Lakes Entrance, a special spot where the Gippsland Lakes meet the ocean. It’s worth detouring to Blue Gables winery at Maffra then on to Lightfoot Wines at Calulu before securing a seat at hatted Paynesville restaurant, Sardine. Maybe later, take a break at Mallacoota near the border.
Day one
But if you do only have a weekend, start in Warragul, about 100 kilometres from Melbourne, specifically at Messmates Dining, a very stylish dinner outpost run by sister and brother Jodie and Chris Odrowaz and their partners. Family is a strong theme in Gippsland. The exceptional food, the setting, the wine list and hospitality are all top-notch; no surprise it was The Age Good Food Guide’s 2025 Regional Restaurant of the Year. For an equally excellent dining experience with more of a wine focus, Hogget Kitchen, on the former Wild Dog winery site, is one of my favourite places. Trevor Perkins, who’s both the owner and the thoughtful chef, offers outstanding, wholesome and seasonally focussed dishes. He’s a nose-to-tail cook, and local produce is the highlight. The place is also a collaboration with winemakers William Downie and Patrick Sullivan, whose wines fill out the largely local list as they lease the winery and vineyard adjoining the restaurant. Ryan Ponsford from Entropy also makes his wine here. Bonus, Hogget Kitchen is also open for lunch.
While there is no shortage of accommodation of all types (although bookings are essential during peak periods such as school holidays), if you want to stay at a winery, the worker’s cottage at the Wine Farm in Koonwarra is perfect. It’s where Neil and Anna Hawkins have carved out a wonderful life, with biodynamics the foundation of their land, and wines with a welcoming hospitality their ethos. The three-bedroom cottage is just right for families or a group of friends wanting to relax and yet be close enough to all the regional enticements, including Fleet Wines’ cellar door which is about 15 kilometres away in Leongatha.
Fleet's Lisa and Justin Jenkins are ex-Melbourne hospitality folk who decided to make grape growing and winemaking their vocation. They bought a beautiful patch of land nearly a decade ago and set about planting vines and building a home, as well as a ripper cellar door (open on weekends). Fleet is a magnet for those who want to natter over a glass or two of delicious wine with a platter to match and the bonus of a spectacular view.
Day two
If you want to combine a beach stay with swimming and walks along grassy sand dunes, go to Inverloch on the shores of Bass Strait. There’s such a holiday vibe here – no one seems stressed or in a hurry, and neither am I. Plonk down at Dirty Three Wines, another favourite for a simple lunch with excellent wines. In the industrial part of Inverloch, this chilled-out zone comprises a cellar door and eatery created by wife and husband team Lisa Sartori and Marcus Satchell.
He's a skilled winemaker and, as well as the regional strongholds of chardonnay and pinot noir, he crafts tip-top sparkling, riesling and more. Known as 'Mr Gippsland' because of his knowledge and in-demand skill set, he also makes wine for local grower-producers such as Waratah Hills and Carrajung Estate. Both born and raised in Wonthaggi, Lisa and Marcus are the go-to folk for all your wine, eating and tourist tips. They’re always up for a chat.
Next stop to rest and feast (or feast then rest) is Meeniyan, just over half an hour from Inverloch. I adore the village atmosphere of this small yet lively town, but more so the cannoli from Trulli Pantry. There are two types on offer, ricotta or Chantilly custard – my preference is the former. Oh my. So glad Francesco Laera, who hails from Puglia, made his home here. His brother, Claudio, now works alongside him at the Pantry, which also offers wines, cured meats, sausages, prepared meals and baked goods. There’s a casual bar and open-air dining space called Trulli Outdoors, in partnership with Sailors Grave brewing, and the menu is simple and enticing – wood-fired pizza folks, none better within cooee.
An hour away is Wilsons Promontory, the southernmost edge of the mainland renowned for its remote national park, pristine beaches and the Tidal River campground. You could chill out on your last day, but sticking to a wine and dine program, lunch at Waratah Hills Vineyard at Fish Creek is on the itinerary.
My friend Georgia Roberts is the viticulturist, and she told me there’s been a real effort to lure people back to the area with their casual restaurant, the Harvest Kitchen, and cellar door. It’s working a treat, and at the time of writing, a new chef is taking over who’ll continue to maintain a relaxed space and very good food alongside a range of wines from both estate and grower fruit.
Now, there are two options for the drive back to Melbourne. If you’d rather stay coastal, a stop at Purple Hen winery on Phillip Island is a must. It keeps a low profile but the wines are seriously good, from refreshing riesling and chardonnay to pinot noir and spicy, peppery shiraz.
Alternatively, stick to the South Gippsland Highway and venture to the small community of Loch. Aside from picking up goodies at Loch Cheese Merchant – this is dairy country, after all – check out Loch Brewery & Distillery. The former double-storey bank is now home to a range of gins, ales and single malt whiskies. Craig Johnson and Melinda Davies bought the building, and in 2013, their brewery/distillery took hold. Their history echoes so many others in this lovely part of the world – a can-do attitude, a commitment to quality and a story to tell. After 48 hours in South Gippsland, replete is how you leave.
