Back to their roots: Greek winemakers are eschewing international grapes in favour of the country's 200+ indigenous varieties

Since the 1960s, varieties like chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and syrah have been planted en masse in Greece. Yet in 80 per cent of the country’s vineyards, grape growers have continued to nurture more than 200 indigenous Greek varieties, and the public is well and truly taking notice.

“The real shift came when international markets started showing more interest in native varieties rather than standard international ones, being more open to assyrtiko, malagousia and moschofilero,” says Greek Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis.

“This change, particularly over the past few decades, has encouraged Greek producers to highlight their native grapes more deliberately, focusing on quality, regional identity, and differentiation in the global market.”

Greece has fully embraced the EU framework for categorising wine and wine regions, with 33 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) and 114 Protected Geographical Indications (PGI), which determine factors such as yield, styles, and permitted varieties, while also protecting the identity and reputation of Greek wines.

Even retsina, a wine traditionally made from the grape savatiano and infused with pine resin during fermentation, has seen its status rise from cheap and poor quality as young winemakers have seen the possibilities of creating better, fresher examples.

While the country may seem small compared to Australia, there is tremendous diversity across the Grecian peninsula and islands in terms of climate and terroir. From the snow-capped mountains of Northern Greece to the balmy Mediterranean plains of Central and Southern Greece, and the arid, sun-kissed shores of the Aegean Islands, Greece offers not only much excitement to holidaymakers but also to wine lovers.

As might be expected, different grape varieties have become prevalent in certain areas due to more suitable terroir, yet others, such as savatiano, roditis and agiorgitiko, are grown across the country. While countless numbers of indigenous varieties may have already been lost, concerted efforts to save, identify and nurture new and existing ones are being made.

One winery doing its bit and reaping the rewards is Gerovassiliou Estate, near Thessaloniki. “Since the beginning of its establishment in 1981, Gerovassiliou has focused on indigenous Greek varieties,” says marketing specialist Vasiliki Gerovassiliou. “The first plantings were malagousia and assyrtiko, while limnio was planted in 1990. We also have an exploratory vineyard with 46 varieties, most of which are indigenous Greek varieties, and we are constantly experimenting.

“In addition to our family winery, we are involved in four other significant wineries across Greece, which allows us to explore different terroirs and grape varieties such as kydonitsa and vidiano,” says Vasiliki. “Additionally, at Ktima Biblia Chora, we are working with a unique variety known as vivlinos oinos, which is produced from an ‘unknown’ red variety discovered in the Pangaio region. After years of research and DNA identification testing, it has been proven to be an old Greek variety that does not match any other modern Greek or foreign variety.”

The picturesque island of Santorini is another area brimming with indigenous varieties such as athiri, aidani, mandilaria, mavrotragano and gaidouria. Yet here, assyrtiko well and truly reigns. This love for assyrtiko is encapsulated by Santo Wines, on the striking western shores of the island, which produces the grape in many styles, matured in various vessels such as French oak barrels or clay amphorae. 

“The emblematic assyrtiko grape expresses itself through an impressive range of styles, from the elegant freshness of sparkling wines to the deep complexity of aged vinsanto,” says marketing manager Katerina Filippou. “Assyrtiko melds finesse and refreshing vibrancy while retaining the intense minerality and liveliness of Santorini’s volcanic soils, showcasing crisp acidity, a saline energy, and perfect harmony with Mediterranean cuisine.”

Santo Wines is well known for its vinsanto, some of which has been aged for more than 20 years. The winery is made up of a collective of grape growers and farmers on the island, focusing on producing not only high-quality wines but also tomatoes and beans. They have no plans to incorporate any grapes from other parts of Greece – and there’s no need, as Santorini is home to 57 varieties.

Further south, on the Mediterranean island of Crete, Lyrarakis works almost exclusively with the island’s indigenous varieties, including ultra-rare ones such as melissaki and plyto, many of which are grown at altitudes of at least 450m. Established by brothers Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis in 1966, the family’s second generation is now heavily involved in the business, with the revival of local varieties as its stated aim.

“We are currently experimenting with more than 13 different indigenous Cretan varieties that are not yet part of our portfolio, some of which are undergoing microvinifications to explore their potential,” says marketing manager Christina Apostolidi. “We’re always on the lookout for forgotten grapes in the vineyards of Crete, with an ongoing exploration across the island part of our commitment to revive and share rare local treasures. Greek wine is about uniqueness, and our indigenous varieties grow nowhere else in the world and offer consumers truly distinctive taste experiences.”

In Australia, it appears that only two Greek grape varieties are currently grown: assyrtiko by Jim Barry Wines in Clare Valley; and mavrodaphne by Mazi Wines in McLaren Vale. “Australia’s diverse climates make it ideal for cultivating more Greek varieties beyond these two,’ says Vasiliki. “Xinomavro, agiorgitiko, and vidiano could also adapt well to different regions, showcasing their unique characteristics.”

For lovers of aromatic whites, malagousia is an exciting prospect which melds a full-bodied mouthfeel with aromatic richness; Gerovassiliou’s offering is an excellent example.

There is, of course, potential for assyrtiko in other Australian wine regions, particularly in warmer climes, as well as the aforementioned vidiano, which can be spicy, creamy and intense.

Of the reds, while it can be a bit finicky, xinomavro would be an obvious choice. In the right hands, it produces powerful yet beautiful wines that, with age, become nebbiolo-like, and it can even be used for sparkling wine production. Mavrotragano, originally made only as a sweet wine on Santorini or to add aroma to vinsanto, shows great promise as a dry varietal, producing dark, spicy and silky reds.

“Greek wine is in the middle of an exciting new era, as Greece is producing world-class wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the best in the world,” says Yiannis Karakasis. “Greek winemakers are combining tradition with innovation, refining techniques, and focusing on quality more than ever. If you haven’t explored Greek wine yet, now is the time.”

This article first appeared in issue #79 of Halliday magazine. Become a member to receive all four issues delivered to your door per year, digital access to over 180,000 tasting notes, plus much more.

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