Coonawarra wineries to discover
Almost halfway between Adelaide and Melbourne, South Australia's Coonawarra is a standout wine region known for producing complex wines from its cool climate and famed terra rossa soil. With a winemaking history that spans over a century, Coonawarra's key varietals are shiraz, merlot, chardonnay, riesling and, of course, cabernet sauvignon.
"The Coonawarra and cabernet combination is a gift from nature: an exceptional mix of natural elements – a cool climate and perfect soil," says Rymill Coonawarra winemaker Lewis White. If you haven't visited before, we'd highly recommend that you book a trip. The region is largely flat, with a number of family-owned wineries that are neatly grouped, making for an excellent touring experience. Says Matthew Reimann of Riddoch Coonawarra: "Coonawarra is a friendly community that warmly welcomes visitors and should be on everyone's bucket list."
Below, we spoke to five producers from Coonawarra: Balnaves of Coonawarra, Brand & Sons, Riddoch Coonawarra, Rymill Coonawarra, Zema Estate. They told us why they love making wine in Coonawarra, and we found out which wine of theirs you need to try.
Get to know the five wineries below.
Balnaves of Coonawarra
Owner Doug Balnaves says: I was a local shearer until starting in the wine industry in the late 1960s. Myself and my children Kirsty and Pete Balnaves have been working together for over 30 years in the family business, which was established in 1988. We enjoy working together, giving back to our industry at the same time as running a responsible business, whilst embracing change, technology and aiming to do better in everything we do.
Our winemaking philosophy is to maximise and build complexity and structure in all the wines. Rather than focus on simple varietal fruit characters, the wines show complex fruit, oak and tannin aromas, and rich yet fine palate structures, with noticeable texture as well as flavour on the finish.
H. What do you love about making wine in Coonawarra?
DB. We love being part of the community of the people who live and work here. The climate and famous terra rossa soils in Coonawarra ensure that we have solid foundations with which the Balnaves of Coonawarra individuality of style can be expressed through meticulous winemaking techniques – particularly cabernet sauvignon, which we specialise in.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
DB. A wine room that overlooks water with abundance of bird life and beautiful rose gardens.
Favourite local spot: Walking some of the back roads with the big red gums and appreciating the wildlife we live with – no day is ever the same.
Wine to try
2020 Balnaves of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is perfectly structured and flavoured. Blackcurrant, dark chocolate, bay leaf and violet flavours come threaded with tobacco and assorted fragrant herbs. It’s all built on tannin, in a way, and yet regardless the fruit flavours flood straight through, like a wave. Stand atop the bow of this wine, peer out towards the horizon, and that’s where this wine’s future lies. – James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 points.Best enjoyed: Pair with lamb grilled with a rosemary-infused olive oil. Serve at room temperature in a cabernet glass.
RRP $40 | Drink to 2032 | balnaves.com.au | Shop this wine
Brand & Sons
Winemaker Peter Weinberg says: Brand & Sons is a boutique wine producer focused on producing small batch wines that highlight the flavours of the Coonawarra.
Since 1852, the Brand family have distinguished themselves with their authenticity, ingenuity and determination. These characteristics are the foundation of a legacy which has endured for six generations, from pioneering bushman to an Australian winemaking dynasty. Brand & Sons is owned and managed by fourth generation vigneron, Sam Brand and family.
H. What do you love about making wine in Coonawarra?
Vigneron Sam Brand. The region and township itself is very beautiful, with a great community, but it is the climate and the natural environment which allow some amazing fruit to be grown here year after year. Despite being very flat, there are significant differences in the vineyard sites, which allows you to focus on these unique qualities and make something that stands out.
H. How do you approach the winemaking process?
SB. With the obvious focus on cabernet sauvignon from the region, we continue to look at ways of improving quality across all varieties. Our cabernet franc, for example, is getting some great recognition, as are the two ‘Old Town’ small batch wines. These wines come from older vines, creating elegant wines with a unique story to tell.
Favourite local spot: It’s a hard question, but there is no place like home. I very much enjoy the patio in the backyard of our family home in the Coonawarra township for a meal and a few drinks.
Wine to try
2021 Brand & Sons Old Town Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a dramatic, tannic, bold-fruited red wine with length – not to mention quality – to burn. There's both an elegance and a minerality in play here but brute, impressive force remains the main message. It's another outstanding release from a producer that has hit the ground running in the most emphatic of ways. – Campbell Mattinson, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 points.Best enjoyed: With friends, and paired with a Mayura Station wagyu beef tomahawk.
RRP $80 | Drink to 2030 | brandandsons.com.au | Shop this wine
Riddoch Coonawarra
Winemaker Matthew Reimann says: Riddoch Coonawarra celebrates the visionary pioneer John Riddoch, who founded the Coonawarra region by establishing the Coonawarra Fruit Colony in 1891. Riddoch Coonawarra is known for crafting bold and fruitful wines that show great varietal expression, promising drinkers a unique taste that is distinctly Coonawarra.
H. What do you love about making wine in Coonawarra?
MR. During the vintage season, our team and I take up residence at the picturesque Riddoch Estate. This location not only serves as our lodging but also as a prime source of our premium grapes, cultivated on the exquisite 10-acre vineyard. The Estate becomes our home away from home. We dedicate countless hours to strolling through the vineyards, meticulously tasting the grapes before harvest, and at night we gather around the crackling open fire for a meal and a glass of Coonawarra red.
H. How do you approach the winemaking process?
MR. We steer clear of overshadowing our wines' natural qualities with excessive winemaking techniques. The regional characteristics we cherish are epitomised by the cool climate, fostering a gradual ripening process that yields exceptional fruit flavours and enticing aromatics. This climate also plays a vital role in developing ripe, refined tannins that contribute to a full-bodied flavour profile, the hallmark of our wines.
Favourite local spot: If I could attend just one event in Coonawarra each year, it would be the Penola Cup. This popular gathering showcases the region's wines and cuisine under a large marquee. The event features fashion displays, wine auctions, and horse races, drawing a diverse crowd.
Wine to try
2021 Riddoch Coonawarra The Author Cabernet Sauvignon
Blackberry patch, sweet mulberries and dried gum leaf. Star anise, chewing tobacco and vanilla pod. Turned earth and porcini mushroom. Plums and dark chocolate. Oaks sits behind the fruit power. The palate is assertive in acidity and fine-mesh tannins. It drinks like it has a pep in its step. Will cellar well. – Shanteh Wale, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 points.Best enjoyed: Pair with slow roasted lamb shoulder with red wine and porcini jus and char grilled broccoli. Best served at room temperature in big glasses, which allow the wine to breathe.
RRP $65 | Drink to 2036 | riddochcoonawarra.com.au | Shop this wine
Rymill Coonawarra
Winemaker Lewis White says: Rymill Coonawarra is 40 years old and growing strong. We believe Australia’s best cabernet sauvignon comes from Coonawarra, which is why over 50 per cent of our vineyards are planted to this variety. We have 140 hectares of sustainably-grown vineyards entirely on Coonawarra's precious terra rossa soil.
H. What do you love about making wine in Coonawarra?
LW. We love Coonawarra's unparalleled ability to produce wines of distinction, particularly cabernet sauvignon. The Terra Rossa soil – a striking red clay over limestone – provides excellent drainage and imparts subtle mineral characteristics to the grapes, which contribute to the complexity and structure of our wines. Coonawarra’s cool climate, ensures a long, slow ripening season. This allows the grapes to develop intense flavours and balanced acidity, while retaining their freshness and vibrancy.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
LW. The Rymill Coonawarra cellar door is a welcoming and iconic destination in the heart of Coonawarra. Greeted by the striking Stallions Rampant statue at the entrance, visitors can enjoy tastings of our premium wines in a spacious and inviting setting with high ceilings and beautiful vineyard views. We offer custom platters featuring local South Australian produce, which can be enjoyed inside or on the grounds surrounded by the stunning landscape. For those curious about winemaking, our multi-level observation decks provide a unique chance to see the journey from vine to glass.
Favourite local spot: We love taking the kids out to spot waterbirds or wallabies in some of the local nature reserves. It's peaceful, cool and calm.
Wine to try
2021 Rymill Coonawarra Classic Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe Bing cherries, bilberry and blood plums. Blueberry compote and quince paste. Fruit cake and baking spices. A sappy rosemary and thyme note to the tannins with cedar and sweet chewing tobacco. A muscular wine that shows the Coonawarra stye with sophistication. – Shanteh Wale, Halliday Wine Companion, 93 points.Best enjoyed: Classically-styled cabernet is well suited to a classic match of a scotch fillet and grilled stuffed mushrooms. Serve at room temperature.
RRP $39 | Drink to 2034+ | rymill.com.au | Shop Rymill Cabernet
Zema Estate
Proprietor and viticulturist Nick Zema says: We’re a family-owned winery with deep roots in Coonawarra, and a proud Italian heritage. Our focus is on crafting exceptional Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, showcasing the characteristics of the region – intense fruit flavours, fine structure, and remarkable ageing potential.
H. What do you love about making wine in Coonawarra?
NZ. Coonawarra is renowned for producing some of the world’s finest cabernet sauvignon. The region’s long, cool ripening season is key, allowing the grapes to develop concentration and complexity while retaining balance and elegance. We also love being part of the Coonawarra winemaking community, this collaborative spirit, combined with the region’s natural gifts, makes creating wine in Coonawarra a deeply rewarding experience.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
NZ. At our cellar door, guests can expect a warm, welcoming atmosphere. We offer complimentary tastings of our current release wines and, for those wanting to linger a little longer, enjoy one of our gourmet platters, which pair perfectly with our wines. Our cellar door also features a selection of condiments and gifts, including the much-loved Mrs Zema's homemade chilli paste and olive oil. For a truly unforgettable visit, book a private tasting experience, where you’ll explore our rare museum wines in a secluded setting, hosted personally by myself or our winemaker, Joe Cory.
Favourite local spot: My favourite local spot is the Coonawarra Walking Trail, a great way to immerse yourself in the heart of our wine region. The trail meanders through the vineyards and along Coonawarra’s famous terra rossa soil, offering a peaceful escape. It includes six wineries and is just under 5km, making it an easy way to explore what makes Coonawarra so special.
Wine to try
2018 Zema Estate Family Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
Curls of flavour-soaked tannin. Currants with clear inlays of dry tobacco, herbs, aniseed and dust. A general juiciness to the flow and yet it still feels as though it's a wine to be taken seriously. All the angles and characters of this wine are positive. It's a very good release, with an excellent future ahead. – Campbell Mattinson, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 points.Best enjoyed: The Family Selection Cabernet is perfect for hearty Christmas dishes such as roast rack of lamb, and dark chocolate tart with raspberries. Decant the wine for 30–60 minutes before serving. This helps to aerate and open up the wine’s rich bouquet of dark fruits, spice, and earthy undertones.
RRP $49.99 | Drink to 2034 | zema.com.au | Shop this wine
Top image credit: Riddoch Coonawarra.
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