“Heroes”

“Heroes” is a small, organically farmed vineyard in the cool Otway Hinterland near Birregurra, but the wines have grown well beyond the scale of the operation. James Thomas planted the 3.4ha site in 1999, and the now mature, unirrigated vines produce fruit of remarkable concentration. Pinot Noir is the star, with chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc rounding out the estate plantings, while the Anti Heroes range draws on carefully selected vineyards beyond the property. James has progressively refined his farming, moving to zero-till management, meticulous shoot thinning and very low yields, with the vineyard in the process of obtaining organic certification. In the winery, the approach is equally considered: natural ferments, no fining and no additions beyond sulphur. It’s a philosophy that puts the vineyard and vintage firmly in the driver’s seat. The wines have a quiet sophistication, combining intensity with finesse rather than relying on weight. What began as a small personal project has developed into a distinctive western Victorian label with a clear sense of place and purpose. -KATRINA BUTLER