When Mark Bulman shipped his newly released ’24 vintage grenache wines to those on his allocation list in early June, he included a handwritten, wax-sealed letter in every single order.
“I wanted to show genuine appreciation for those who supported me last year,” he says. “Winemaking is pointless unless you have others enjoying what you create, and without them I simply couldn't go on making the wines. I figured a handwritten note was the best way to communicate this.”
The two wines – Glen’s Vineyard, which comes from the Stonegarden Vineyard in Springton in the Eden Valley, and Gary’s Vineyard, from the Springs Hill Vineyard in Blewitt Springs – were first made in 2023 and released last year. The third wine in the Bulman range, a Barossa grenache-based rosé, has been produced annually since Mark established his eponymous label in 2022 – the ’25 has just been bottled.
Mark Bulman.
Both the ’24 grenache wines “have more line and power” than the ’23s, says Mark, which were “frisky, spicy and reductive, with slightly edgier tannin shapes.” The differences mostly come down to vintage variation. “I’m quite set on how I want to make these wines, and try to do so without fear,” he says.
“Each wine should speak in a balanced way about vineyard, maker and vintage, so I try to make them as near the same way as possible. The main thing that changes is picking date – but not the flavour maturity I'm looking for – and whole-bunch use.”
Mark fell in love with grenache at Turkey Flat, where he worked as winemaker from 2009 to 2021. Even though it was predominantly used for rosé, Mark knew it had potential as a varietal wine – a hunch that was validated in 2017 when his ’16 Turkey Flat Grenache became the first grenache to win the Jimmy Watson, and enabled a trip to the Southern Rhône cru of Gigondas where he worked vintage at Pierre Amadieu.
“I have over 15 years of experience with the variety, so what I do now is try and stick to my guns and hope people like the wines.”
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