Why Wirra Wirra's flagship release represents its new chapter

It’s been four years since chief winemaker Emma Wood left Penfolds to take up the mantle at Wirra Wirra. But, with the latest release – comprising the 2023 RSW Shiraz, 2023 The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2025 The Absconder Grenache – the first flagship collection to be made entirely by her, it's symbolic of the McLaren Vale winery’s new chapter.

"2023 was the first full vintage year for me," she says. "My plan was not to throw any babies out with any bath water. All I wanted to do was focus on vineyard picking decisions, how wines were blended and finished off.

“The team was a little concerned in the early weeks of vintage that I was going to pick late and make more Penfolds-style wines, but I wasn’t! To me, the best wines are made from good picking decisions,” she adds. “Wirra Wirra has always made varietally expressive wines; my focus in 2023 was building the mid-palate and getting the tannin structure even and long.”

Wirra Wirra chief winemaker Emma Wood.

The years since have brought further refinements, and not just to winemaking. Under CEO Matt Deller MW, who joined around the same time as Emma in late 2022, there have been significant upgrades to winery equipment, vineyard assets, and site selection. In addition to the 20ha estate vineyard, Wirra Wirra sources from several premium sites across the Adelaide Hills and the Vale, including, from 2024, the Bekkers and Hickinbotham vineyards in Clarendon.

“We looked to cooler parts of the region in order to maintain style for both RSW and The Angelus during hotter vintages, but we ended up releasing a portion under our single-vineyard range as they were so exciting and unique,” Emma says.

Grenache has always been an important variety for Wirra Wirra – until then-winemaker Brian Croser swapped it out for cabernet in the ’80s, Church Block was a grenache-led blend – but the recent purchase of the acclaimed Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs is a sign of how committed the winery is to the grape. 

The latest flagship release includes the 2023 RSW, 2023 The Angelus, and 2025 The Absconder.

“While 2027 will be our first chance to get to know Trott and the different sections, we anticipate making a single-site wine from this amazing vineyard,” Emma says. “I’m looking forward to being able to interpret the fruit in a Wirra Wirra way.” 

This will join the existing grenache in the winery’s range, including (but not limited to) the Flower Vineyard Grenache, the Blagrove Vineyard Grenache, the Farmer’s Heart Grenache and The Absconder Grenache. First made in 2010, The Absconder was one of the earliest examples of that “more vibrant, red-fruited style,” Emma says. 

“We have achieved so much in the past four years, but it’s a culmination of a lot of people’s hard work, commitment and passion,” she adds. “I am genuinely excited and positive for the future.”

See how Marcus Ellis scored the flagship collection release – and the rest of the current range – below.

Become a member to access all Halliday's wine reviews

Sign up to become a Halliday member and unlock a wealth of benefits, including:

- Brand new wine reviews delivered to your inbox weekly
- Digital access to our library of over 190,000 tasting notes from over 4000 wineries and distilleries
- Two issues of Halliday magazine delivered to your door per year
- Member-only articles and stories written by Australia's best wine writers
- Early access to Halliday events across Australia
- Free shipping on Halliday wine packs
- Member-exclusive offers from our winery, distillery and retail partners

And much, much more. Become a Halliday member today.