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Although it’s been four years since chief winemaker Emma Wood left Penfolds to take on the mantle at Wirra Wirra, the latest flagship release, comprising the 2023 RSW Shiraz, 2023 The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2025 The Absconder Grenache, represents a new chapter of sorts for the McLaren Vale winery. 

During her first full vintage in 2023, “my plan was not to throw any babies out with any bath water,” Emma says. “All I wanted to do was focus on vineyard picking decisions, how wines were blended and finished off.

“The team was a little concerned in the early weeks of vintage I was going to pick late and make more Penfolds-style wines, but I wasn’t! To me, the best wines are made from good picking decisions,” she adds. “Wirra Wirra has always made varietally expressive wines; my focus in 2023 was building the mid-palate and getting the tannin structure even and long.”

The years since have seen further refinements, in winery equipment, winemaking, and site selection. While a significant portion of fruit comes from the 20ha estate vineyard, Wirra Wirra also lease or source from a handful of sites in the Vale or nearby Adelaide Hills, including the Whitings Ridge (formerly known as Pattritti), Yandra, Bowhouse, Woods Hill and Barratt vineyards. 

In 2024, the winery began sourcing from cooler sites in Clarendon – namely the Bekkers and Hickinbotham vineyards – to mitigate the warmer vintages. “We ended up releasing a portion under our single vineyard range as they were so exciting and unique,” Emma says.

Although grenache has always been an important variety for Wirra Wirra (until then-winemaker Brian Croser swapped it out for cabernet in the ’80s, Church Block was a grenache-led blend), the recent purchase of the acclaimed Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs proves the winery's commitment to the grape. 

“While 2027 will be our first chance to get to know the vineyard and the different sections, we anticipate making a single-site wine from this amazing vineyard,” Emma says. “I’m looking forward to being able to interpret the fruit in a Wirra Wirra way.” 

This will join the existing grenache in the winery’s range, including (but not limited to) the Flower Vineyard Grenache, the Blagrove Vineyard Grenache, the Farmer’s Heart Grenache and The Absconder Grenache. First made in 2010, The Absconder was one of the earliest examples of that “more vibrant, red-fruited style,” Emma says.