Canberra...
Below, we spoke to four wineries in Canberra: Clonakilla, Lark Hill, Mount Majura Vineyard and Nick O'Leary Wines. They give us an enticing glimpse into what they offer at their cellar doors, and we also found out which wine of theirs you need to try, and what their favourite local spots are.
Get to know the four wineries below.
Clonakilla
Chief winemaker Tim Kirk says: Clonakilla is a pioneer of the Canberra District wine region, making wine in our Murrumbateman winery since 1971. At Clonakilla, we understand that our task as winemakers is simple: Capture what is good and true in the landscape and bottle it for people to enjoy. It is a task we take seriously. We work to craft beautiful, evocative wines from the granitic soils of the hills around Murrumbateman and the red volcanic soils in the Hilltops region around Young.
H. What do you love about making wine in the Canberra District?
TK. Here, where it’s warm by day and cool by night, we get more spice, more red fruit, more floral notes; lovely, elegant dimensions that are expressed in the wines that we craft.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
TK. Our cellar door is wonderful place to experience the wide range of wines that Clonakilla produces. Sit by the fire in a warm and intimate setting, chat around the bar or gather with friends on our outdoor patio and take in the views of our beautiful vineyards.
Favourite local spot: We enjoy the stunning pastries and breads baked on site at Clementine Bakery located right here in Murrumbateman. We would suggest the cinnamon scrolls as the go to treat – get in early!
Wine to try
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2024
A note from Tim Kirk says ’24 turned out to be heartbreaking and brilliant. The former because frost in October caused significant damage, the latter because 'the fruit that survived delivered powerful aromas and intense flavour.' This is splendid, and yes powerful in flavour and structure, yet reined in by poised if plentiful tannins. Abundantly floral, with pepper, black cherries and plums, soy sauce and spicy oak. It’s full bodied, rich and ripe yet comes out complex and contained. – Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 points.
Best enjoyed: Duck a lórange and Burgundy glasses
RRP $130 | Drink to 2035 | clonakilla.com.au | Shop this wine
Lark Hill
Winemaker and director Chris Carpenter says: Lark Hill is a family-owned and operated winery, established by my parents, Sue and Dave, in 1978, when their passion for Riesling crystallised into a career change from academia to winemaking. Today we farm two biodynamic vineyards at Bungendore (Lark Hill) and Murrumbateman (Dark Horse). Our home vineyard is one of the district’s highest sites at 860m and is home to some of its oldest Riesling vines, as well as the first Grüner Veltliner planted in Australia. That same curiosity continues today, through new varieties and an increasing focus on regenerative, resilient farming.
H. What do you love about making wine in the Canberra District?
CC. I love the diversity of altitudes, soils and microclimates, creating distinct sub-regions that suit different varieties so well. Our vineyards span from 860m at Bungendore down to 620m in Murrumbateman, meaning I can grow Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the high sites, as well as Shiraz, Sangiovese and rare Italian varieties like Falanghina and Teroldego on the lower, warmer sites. The warm days and cold nights across the district give us naturally bright acidity and beautiful perfume, creating vibrant, pretty wines.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
CC. Our cellar door overlooks the vineyard, so a visit is very much about slowing down and enjoying the place the wines come from. Guests can taste through a wine flight, stay for a glass, or join us for lunch on weekends, with seasonal food and a relaxed view across our vineyard.
Favourite local spot: It’s too hard to pick just one! In the countryside, I’d choose the Lake George escarpment. It’s a dramatic landscape and an important part of our vineyard’s identity. For food and wine, Bar Rochford in Canberra is hard to beat - relaxed, thoughtful hospitality, adventurous wines, great produce-driven food and always great vinyl spinning.
Wine to try
Lark Hill Lark Hill Vineyard Riesling 2024
A powerhouse of a wine with exceptional aromas and flavours. Orange blossom, quince and curry leaves, a little exotica going on. The palate is textural and juicy, with lots of lemon and a touch of stone fruit. Flavours build, and the pristine acidity takes this out on a high. – Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion, 95+ points.
Best enjoyed: Miso-butter roasted scallops: the sweetness and richness of the scallop work beautifully with the wine’s citrus drive and acidity, while the savory miso picks up the more exotic, textural side of the Riesling.
I like to show this wine in the Plumm #2 glass, as its size and shape help open up the aromas and give the wine room to show its texture. Serve cool rather than ice-cold, around 10–12°C.
RRP $55 | Drink to 2036 | larkhill.wine | Shop this wine
Mount Majura Vineyard
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Vigneron and owner Matt Dunbabin says: Bxxx
H. What do you love about making wine in the Canberra District?
MD. Axx
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
MD. Oxx
Favourite local spot: Oxx
Wine to try
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Axx. – Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 points.Best enjoyed:
RRP $59 | Drink to 2038 | bangor.com.au | Shop this wine
Nick O'Leary Wines
Winemaker Nick O’Leary says: Since 2006, Nick O’Leary has championed Canberra’s potential through progressive winemaking grounded in European tradition. Continually evolving and challenging benchmarks, the label combines contemporary techniques with generations of insight and experience. The result is distinctive, refined wines that express the region’s character and have earned recognition from enthusiasts and international critics alike.
H. What do you love about making wine in the Canberra District?
NO. What I love about the Canberra District is its incredible diversity and the opportunity it presents with every vintage. Riesling is particularly expressive of site, giving us the chance to capture a true sense of place and season. With such a broad range of varieties suited to our naturally high-acid climate, every site brings a new challenge. Add the beautiful Brindabellas and a generous, collaborative community, and it’s a pretty special place to make wine.
H. What can guests expect from a visit to your cellar door?
NO. Guests can kick back inside or soak up the sun on our patio, taking in the beautiful views of the Brindabella Ranges for a laid-back, feel-good dining experience. Our share-style menu serves up a delicious variety of dishes made from the freshest local produce, perfect with your favourite wine, a cold beer or a cheeky cocktail. Good food, easy vibes, great scenery and never a rush home.
Favourite local spot: Our neighbours down the road at Brindabella Hills Winery, we head there when we feel like a different view and some delicious alternative varietals.
Wine to try
Nick O'Leary Wines White Rocks Riesling 2025
The palate is richly perfumed and beautifully layered, unfolding with jasmine, honeysuckle and delicate orange blossom over vibrant notes of Pink Lady apple, finger lime and mandarin. Luxuriously textured yet wonderfully poised, mouth-watering, laser-like acidity drives the wine with energy and precision, while a long, luminous finish leaves an impression of exceptional purity and finesse. Built with remarkable concentration and tension, this is a wine destined to evolve gracefully and reward many years in the cellar. – Nick O'Leary
Best enjoyed: Hiramasa Kingfish sashimi + fried capers + scorched onion + leek & white soy vinaigrette + chervil.
Drink between 7-9 degrees out of a stemmed tulip glass with a wide bowl to enhance aromas.
RRP $42 | Drink to 2037 | nickolearywines.com.au | Shop this wine
Top image credit: Lark Hill
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