Vodka is essentially a neutral spirit, bordering on flavourless. Almost 100 per cent pure ethanol diluted with water, all but the slightest influence of the original ingredients distilled away, the entire point of the style is to be crisp and clean. Vodka is perfect for sipping very cold as a palate cleanser when eating things like pickled vegetables and smoked meats, and is also a critical cocktail ingredient as the alcohol acts as a flavour enhancer without adding any character of its own.
Vodka emerged as a style in Northeast Europe (places like Russia and Poland), and over time has leaned more and more towards neutral, crisp and clean, especially after the invention of the column still in the late 19th century, which vastly improved the efficiency of distillation. Vodka is in many ways the opposite of whisky: one is designed to highlight the flavour and character of the grains from which it is distilled, the other designed to strip away all of that character for something entirely neutral.
The vast majority of vodka in the world is distilled from grains because they are the cheapest source of fermentable sugar, but there are also some brands made from neutral grape spirit and other sources of sugar, all of which have a subtle influence on the final product. For example, a vodka distilled from rye grain will have a slight difference to once distilled from wheat. Of course there are also flavoured vodkas which range from the simple – like citrus flavoured vodka – to complex botanical vodkas almost resembling gin, to outlandish concoctions like pavlova and birthday-cake flavoured vodkas that veer towards liqueur territory.
While most vodkas aim to be very neutral in style, there are also some brands that opt for a little more character and texture while still maintaining a crisp, clean palate. Both styles are legitimate and work well for various applications depending on the intention. Cheap, poorly made vodkas will often taste harsh and hot, although not generally noticeable in a mixed drink, while quality vodkas will maintain texture and ease of drinking even in a martini or on the rocks.
Almost all vodka in Australia is produced at a single, industrial grain distillery by Manildra, which is then diluted, sometimes re-distilled and repackaged by various brands around the country. But while the lion’s share of vodka brands are made from repackaged industrial grain spirit, there are a handful of Aussie producers like Grainshaker making their own spirit from scratch, and even a couple of really fun and esoteric brands making spirit from unique sources of fermentable sugar such as Hartshorn, which makes their vodka from sheep’s whey.
But at the end of the day, the quality of most vodka will come down to how cheaply it was made, and beyond about $80/bottle, with the exception of really boutique stuff like Hartshorn, all you’re paying for is marketing.
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Top image: Husk Distillery courtesy of Destination NSW
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